How to prepare a Fresh Crab

Place a large saucepan on the heat and add enough water to cover the crab. Warm the water. Put in the crab, and begin to turn up the heat. (Some people say this is easier for the crab, as it falls asleep. You may prefer to plunge the crab into boiling water, and get the process over more quickly.) Boil the crab for 15 to 20 minutes.

Remove and cool completely — for at least 1 hour. Turn the cold crab over, remove the legs by pulling in the opposite direction from which they lie. Remove tail flap and discard. Next prise open the section, called the purse, to which all the legs were attached. An oyster knife is a good implement to do this with. Prise any white and brown meat from the purse, but discard the grey, feather-like fingers.

Press down the eye section of the crab, and pull away, lifting out the eyes and the stomach sac behind it. The shell contains the brown meat and the roe; spoon this out. The brown meat from inside the shell can then be processed in a food processor, after which it forms an absolutely delicious pâté-type mixture. To remove the white meat, smash the large front claws of the crab carefully, so as not to smash the meat. Pull away the flesh of the crab, including the meat that you will find in the pincers. The smaller legs donʼt have much meat in, and are best used as a garnish. When you have finished you will be left with a bowl of white meat and a bowl of brown meat. Use all the shells to make a stock or bisque.

These photos were taken in my kitchen by Kevin O'Farrell. We were writing and preparing crab according to Martin Shanahan's method for Martin's book Martin's Fishy Fishy  Cookbook. The whole process is slightly fiddly, but definitely worth it. No packet of crab meat will ever taste quite the same as the one you prepare yourself.