The story of Herring

If you’re lucky enough to spot some Irish Herring, in either farmers’ markets or fish shops, then snap them up. The season for fishing herring only opens a few weeks per year, this year from 19 September to 15 November, closing earlier if the quota is reached. The fishing of herring is heavily regulated, and - to give credit where it is due: it is very much self-regulated by Irish fishermen.

Herring has been fished to within an inch of its life on a number of occasions. Like cod, it has a fascinating history. Talk to an Irish fisherman and they will tell you it's all the fault of the Japanese Emperor Hirohito, the man who took Japan into the second world war, the marine biologist who renounced divinity, and also, apparently, created a demand for herring roe, still prized for sushi.

Bad practice followed, with fishermen carrying out the notorious practice of Discard, ie throwing away perfectly good, but dead herring, if it didn't have the roe attached. Nowadays herring roe fishing is banned and the fishing of herring in Irish waters has actually increased its quota because of good management.

For, back in 2007, the fishing industry itself developed a recovery plan, and the governing body of this group - The Celtic Sea Herring Management Advisory Committee, has not only brought stocks right back up, they are now in the running for a coveted Marine Stewardship Council certification, and if they get it, Irish herring will be able to bear the blue MSC ecolabel, a great reward for sustainable fishing practices.

Herrings are famously healthy, all those omega 3 fatty acids. But their oily volatility means they need to be cooked quickly, and that’s why they are often preserved in salt or vinegar.

If you are lucky enough to get them fresh, just fry them, first rolled in oats, with a bit of smoked bacon. Otherwise it’s immensely rewarding to pickle your own roll mops. Once you have the mops you can make them into salads with beetroot or potatoes, serve them with sour cream sauces or with mustard flavoured vinaigrettes, or just eat them whole from the jar, happy knowing they are good for you and a sustainable product that you can genuinely support.

Picture from Wikimedia Commons freely licensed media file repository


Roll Mop Herrings


12 herrings, filleted but not skinned
12 small pickled gherkins, halved
1 lemon, sliced
1 onion, sliced
6 bay leaves
2 chillies
1 teaspoon of mustard seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
6 cloves
400ml white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons water
15g salt


Cut each herring down the backbone to make two fillets and roll each one up, skin side out, around a piece of gherkin. Fasten with a cocktail stick. You will have 24 in all.

Pack the herrings, lemon slices, onion slices, chillies, bay leaves, seeds and cloves into the jar mixing fish and seasonings as you go.

Place the vinegar into a small saucepan, add the salt and a dash of water. Bring to the boil, stir to dissolve the salt. Cool and then poor over the rollmops.

Leave for a week in the fridge to cure. After that the rollmops will last approximately three weeks in the fridge.