Rosemary

It’s a lovely thought that the origins of the word Rosemary come from ros – dew, and marinus – sea. Hence dew of the sea. Though nobody seems to know how it got that name, other than perhaps the bluey flowers. Right now, in the early spring, when it comes to excitement in the garden, rosemary is the only show in town, with its profusion of little flowers, and its unmistakable taste.

Rosemary looks good, tastes good and is good for you. It’s also the subject of many many myths, the most famous being that the plant will only flourish in a house where the woman rules. It’s also emblematic of fidelity. Perhaps this has a more plausible explanation – rosemary is great brain food. It contains inhibitors that break down the chemicals that are linked to Alzheimer’s disease and memory impairment.

Rosemary is in flower now, and the flowers taste so good – like rosemary to the power of ten. They’re so pretty in a salad, in the role that will later be occupied by chive flowers. They blend into butter, or soft cheese, garnish cupcakes and sauces.

Try this arresting recipe from our favourite book of the moment An Everlasting Meal by Tamar Adler. It’s made in a ring-shaped bundt pan.

Rosemary cake
(adapted from Cooking by Hand, by Paul Bertolli)

8 eggs
1 ½ cups sugar
1 ⅔ cups olive oil
4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh rosemary
3 cups flour
2 tablespoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt

Heat the oven to 325 degrees.

Coat a bundt pan first with butter, then with flour, tapping out the excess flour.

Beat the eggs for 30 seconds with a handheld beater. Slowly add the sugar and continue to beat until the mixture is very foamy and pale. Still mixing, slowly drizzle in the olive oil. Using a spatula, fold in the rosemary.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Keeping the mixer on low speed, gradually add the dry ingredients to the egg mixture. Pour the batter into the bundt pan.

Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, rotating the pan half way through. The cake is done when it is golden  brown and springs back when touched, or when a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean. Allow the cake to cool briefly in the pan and then tip it out onto a rack to continue cooling.

This is delicious accompanied by freshly whipped cream into which you can beat a few drops of vanilla and a sprinkle of sugar.