Once upon a time.
This is the beginning of a culinary story, a story where we hope a little magic might happen.
That magic, I am hoping, will be nothing less than a magic spell that will transform one ingredient into another. But, we will have to wait a while to see.
This year and last has seen an explosion of interest in Irish craft brewing: suddenly there are a tremendous number of different brews, made in locations all over the country, and everyone wants to know all about them.
A decade ago, this happened with apples, when delicious branded artisan juices started to pop up, first in country markets and then in shops. Soon these producers took the next step and started producing cider. And then the producers took the next step, and we started to see cider vinegar. Now we even have a wonderful aged balsamic cider vinegar, made in north County Dublin by David Llewellyn (Pick up a bottle from David’s fantastic stall at the Saturday Temple Bar Market.)
I wonder will the same thing happen with our artisan beers? Will we start to see artisan malt vinegars, made using beer, from this dynamic sector of our food community?
To make vinegar you need alcohol. Then you need an acetobacter, which is the bacteria which converts the alcohol into acid in an acetic fermentation that gives you vinegar. Your acetobacter can come naturally, from wild spores that float in the air. But if you introduce a vinegar starter, things happen more quickly, and in a more controlled way.
People talk about a “mother” vinegar, but in fact any drop of vinegar that already contains the bacteria will work. The “Mother” is simply a cellulous version of that bacteria which has collected, and sunk to the bottom of the barrel or the bottle. But the rest of the vinegar also contains the necessary elements.
Malt vinegar is made from barley that is converted into an alcohol, before being fermented into vinegar. By using a craft brew, that first process has already been deliciously done for you by the brewer. The next step is to turn it into vinegar.
It’s not the easiest task to get a vinegar starter for beer. Most commercial vinegars are filtered and pasteurised, and malt vinegars seem to be 100% commercial. After asking around, the way forward became simple. Con Traas’ Apple Farm cider vinegar, made in County Tipperary, is not filtered or pasteurised, and even boasts on the label that it contains a “living mother”: Mr Traas’ vinegar seems fully equipped to do the job. And, for the next batch, we will of course have our own collection of malty bacteria ready to go into production.
I found three bottles of Galway Hooker in the larder (sorry John), and used these to make the vinegar. So, we had the liquid, the starter, all we needed was the container where the magical transformation can take place.
Lucky us. Dunbeacon Pottery is just down the road, the other side of Durrus village. Helen Ennis rose to the challenge with gusto and made us this amazing vinegar crock. It holds exactly three bottles of lager, plus 100mls cider vinegar.
Now the waiting starts. It’s warm, it’s got plenty of air seeping in under that little Dutch hat of cheesecloth, and the gauze will keep it bug free. I’m going to give it three months, and I’ll let you know the end of the story, around about mid June.
www.dunbeaconpottery.com (Helen Ennis will make vinegar crocks to order)
The crock is gorgeous Sally. It would make a very appreciated Father's Day gift. And, although some might deem it wasteful fobbing off the Galway Hooker beer for vinegar, I can only imagine that it will make a most delicious batch.
ReplyDeleteYes, you're right. Some would say it's a waste to use such a wonderful beer. But if this vinegar works I'll use it as a wonderful condiment. And why go to all this time and trouble and use a dodgy brew? I hope Aidan and Ronan will take it as a compliment, not an insult!
ReplyDeleteA corsican man once told me how, in his family, as soon as a young couple announced their engagement,the Granny would go to the dark, cool part of the house where the vinegar plant was stored. She would lift the lid of the earthenware crock, reach in and lift the fungal mat on top of the vinegar and cut off a section with her scissors. She would then take a few cupfuls of the precious liquid, pour it into a new earthenware crockpot, float the fungal mat on top, and store it properly. Over the next few months, all leftover wine was decanted into the young couple's vinegar plant . On the day that their Granny first visited their new home, she presented them with their own vinegar plant. And with all the good wishes that accompanied it, for a long and healthy life together.
ReplyDeleteYet another secret in the great Mediterranean diet!
How did the vinegar turn out? I have just finished my first batch. I did a porter and a US pale ale to see if the malt and hop characteristics come through. The porter one has turned out better I think.
ReplyDeleteIt's actually still sitting on the shelf. I was going to check it in June, so a few weeks yet to wait. I love the idea of the porter one, definitely going to try that next. What do you use it for once ready?
ReplyDeleteI didn't make that much unfortunately. So far it's just been salad dressings. I may make some pickles with the rest. or some fresh piccalilli. I think it might also work with something like stifado.
ReplyDeleteWell??
ReplyDeleteThe acidity was low, so I wouldn't pickle in it, but the flavour was immense! Makes wonderful sauces. Tastes like, well beer and vinegar. You'd eat it off the spoon :)
ReplyDeleteThanks for asking.