Lovage Burgers

One of these days I'm going to put a stop motion camera on the lovage plant growing just outside our back door. During the winter it seems so profoundly gone. Nothing left apart from the hollow white stalks that snap off at ground level - one minute. And then a foot high bush of stellar edged green leaves the next. It must grow about an inch a day at this time of year.

Lovage is one of those useful herbs that is quite undervalued. Its clean concentration of flavours echoes both celery and parsley. Use it as a flavour base whenever you might otherwise have used celery - roast a chicken over its stalks, have it there for the base of a stock. It seems to draw out meatiness, and is equally complimentary with starchy foods. Makes a great potato and lovage soup.

And you have to love the name of this herb, it actually asks to be loved. We've always remembered the dish of "lovage scented clouds" that chef Mercy Fenton won the Roux Brothers scholarship with when she was a young novice in the kitchen. Alice Waters' Lovage Burgers also sound good - and hey they taste even better. For the lovage seems to draw out barbecue flavours, emphasising juicyness.

Lovage Burgers

Makes 4

2 large cloves garlic
salt
sprig of lovage
400g good quality beef mince
pepper

Pound the garlic with some salt in a pestle and mortar. Finely mince the lovage and add to the garlic. Pound together for a second. Add to the mince and mix with your hands to make sure everything is combined. Shape into four patties, pressing the meat together well, and making a hollow in the centre of each burger so that it cooks evenly.

To serve, cook the burger on a grill, barbecue or fry in a frying pan. Serve relished, in between bread, with salady stuff. Here –  between warm grilled pita bread with dandelion leaves, beetroot, red onion, tomato, cucumber and a dollop of mayo.