Albacore Tuna

 

A World Without Fish, a beautifully illustrated book published last year, is technically described as a graphic novel for children (or perhaps teenagers). Written by Mark Kurlansky, author of the seminal titles Cod and Salt, AWWF may simplify the confusing story of our world fishing industry. But it is written with such clarity and knowledge that it would assist any adult consumer who wants to understand how to navigate what is and isn't sustainable when it comes to buying fish. It also explains how we got the oceans into this mess in the first place.

Despite its title and subject matter AWWF is ultimately a positive read, taking the stance that if you simply refuse to eat fish, not only do communities suffer but there is then no reward for those who fish in a sustainable way.

One fish that is being sustainably landed in numbers in Ireland this August, is Albacore Tuna. A number of albacore fisheries hold the meaningful MSC label, and this is a fish that you can eat with a clear conscience. A white-fleshed tuna, it is the ultimate BBQ fish, because it holds together and suits all sorts of marinades and flame grilling. It's the fish used in Sally Barnes' exceptional smoked tuna, and I love this recipe from John for a tuna carbonara.

Albacore Tuna Carbonara

You can make this dish with canned tuna, but freshly poached and flaked albacore tuna sends the flavours sky-high.


For 4

1 thickly-cut tuna steak, on the bone

200g broccoli

1 tsp finely chopped garlic
1 egg, beaten
1 handful fresh flat-leaf parsley
100g butter, soft
200mls cream
50g grated parmesan, plus cheese for the table
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
200g broccoli

500g penne

Poach the tuna steak gently in a mix of water, lemon juice olive oil, until it is just cooked, and still moist – it is important that the tuna is not dry, so don't overcook. It should still be pink in the centre. Remove from the poaching liquid and let cool. Pull away from the bone and flake roughly.

In a large bowl, toss in the chopped parsley, chopped garlic, beaten egg, grated Parmesan, cream, soft butter, flaked tuna and a generous sprinkling of sea salt and black pepper.

In a separate pan, cook the broccoli in heavily-salted boiling water.

Cook the penne until al dente.

Drain the hot pasta and add it immediately to the ingredients in the bowl. Toss gently until everything is mixed, then add in the hot cooked broccoli and toss together.

Bring the bowl to the table and serve into warmed dishes, with more Parmesan and some good olive oil. This is a rich, unctuous dish of pasta, so a light red, such as a Barbera, will have everyone smiling.